|Historical - SATAVAHANA (Andhra) Period [200 B.C. - A.D. 250] - Ancient Indian Costume|
| By : Ajit Hari Sahu||Previous | Next|
| Posted on : 29 Aug, 2005 ||Total Views : 18444|
History and Social Life
Satavahana Empire Map-The Satavahana or Andhra empire was the next great empire after the Mauryan, and was established in the Deccan just as the Mauryan empire was coming to an end. It endured for 460 years in unbroken continuity and ran parallel, for a while to the Kushan Empire with which it struggled for almost a century. On the whole, it was a peaceful and economically prosperous period and trade and industry increased tremendously, especially with Rome. The Romans brought in a continuous flow of Roman gold, which helped to raise the level of economic life and changed the pattern of urban life a great deal.
Racially, the early people of the Deccan were hybrid race, a mixture of aboriginal Dravidians (or pre-Dravidians) and Scythians (Sakas), Parthians (pahlavas), and Greeks (Yavanas). Buddhism and Mauryan culture had built up a civilized structure even before the Satavahanas established their empire. In the third century AD the Satavahanas were ousted by the Ikshvakus, who were themselves from the Deccan.
The Royal Way of Life
From as early as the Mauryan-Sunga period there was six emblems to denote a royal personage. These were the ushnisa or turban, a pair of flywhisks, umbrella, sword, sandals, and the royal standard. Of these, the two most important and almost always used on all formal occasions were the umbrella and the flywhisks. The umbrella was white and gold for kings and nobles, and was carried by the chattradhara or umbrella carrier. The flywhsiks or Chauri were made of yak tails with gold handles, usually two, which were waved alternately by the chauri bearers. In addition to this a fan of palm leaves gaily chequered and made of bark, usira grass, or peacock feathers was waved by another attendant.
The sword or khadga, a symbol of power, was carried by a female attendant, the khadgavahini, on her shoulder. She normally stood close behind the king or prince. Thonged sandals originally of boarskin were the king’s prerogative. Both sword and sandals were said to rule the kingdom in the absence of the king.
Early Satavahana [200-100 B.C.]
The people of the Deccan were a hybrid race, a mixture of the aboriginal Dravidians and foreign invaders. In the first century BC their costumes too were an interesting mixture of foreign and indigenous garments. All these clothes are represented in Caves IX and X in Ajanta.
In the first Century BC we find tunics, Kancuka in the stripes or beehive design worn by attendants or hunters. The kancuka are of mid-thigh length with short or long sleeves; in some the opening is on the left side, and in others it is at the front. The tunic worn by a king in hunting dress has no discernible opening at the neck, so it is probably at the back. Necklines too differed in that some were V-shaped and others were round in shape. With the tunic a thick Kayabandh was wound once or twice around the waist. An elaborate turban ushnisa, intertwined with the long black hair of the aborigine wearers was also worn. In addition to these, hunters wore two-bar type sandals with a strap for buckling, which is still seen in the Deccan. As influences from the north and from foreign invaders percolated, the Dravidians aboriginal village women too changed their costume using short antariyas, large uttariyas with elaborate board borders covering the head and back, tikkas on the forehead and a series of conch or ivory bangles on the arms. Except for the skirt, they looked very much like the Lambadis who are a gypsy tribe of Deccan today.
In the royal court dress of the Mauryan-Sunga people the female attendant wore transparent long antariyas with loose kayabandhs tied in a knot at the centre having beautiful ornamental tips. Their many –stringed girdles or mekhala were made of beads. Shoulder-length hair held by fillets or top knots tied at the centre of the head seems to denote that these attendants were foreigners, although nothing in the garments worn seems foreign. The king and most of his courtiers wore indigenous antariya, short and informal at home, with the longer style worn in a variety of ways on ceremonial occasions. With this the decorative kayabandh was tied in different styles and knots. The kayabandh could be tied like a thick cord or be worn looped in a semi-circle at the front with conspicuous side tassels, or be made of thick twisted silk. The ushnisa was always worn and a crown or tiara was used when necessary.
Headgear and Hairstyles
The aboriginal jungle women wore rolls and headbands with peacock feathers attached. Village women and commoners wore their hair in a simple knot at the nape covered by a large uttariya, which, at times, had elaborate broad borders. Court attendants and women of the richer classes wore their hair more fashionably, either in a topknot on the right side with a loop of flowers suspended or in a plait. A fillet, simple or gold embroidered could be worn to hold it in place.
Most often, the long hair of men was worn intertwined with lengths of cloth to form an ushnisa in a variety of ways. Frequently it had a knot - the original top knot of the aboriginal-covered with the cloth of the turban. This knot could be at centre front or protrude over the forehead in a conch-shell shape, or the tuft of hair could be visible on top of the turban.
Jewellery in this period had a massive primitive character in strong contrast to that worn in the later Satavahana period. When indigenous garments are shown on men, whether at court or in villages, all wear some form of jewellery. But when the foreign dress, the kancuka or tunic, is worn by hunters, attendants and soldiers, very little or no jewellery is seen. Most often it consists of just earrings of the wheel pattern type.
Indigenous jewellery however, consisted of Lambanam, earrings, and a pair of kangan and bajuband for the males. Women did not wear the baju band but wore a large number of bangles made of conch or ivory, disc-type earrings, the lambanam, and tikka on the forehead. Women attendants at court wore, in addition, the mekhala.
Soldiers wore short-sleeved tunics or jackets, with elaborate headgear consisting of either a turban with a topknot, chin band and earflaps or two topknots with a turban. They were equipped with axes, and bows and arrows, or carried sickles. Palace guards however wore the antariya with a heavy cloak draped over the left shoulder.
Late Satavahana [100 B.C - A.D. 250]
Clothing was generally spares and made of thin cotton. The three articles of clothing, the antariya, uttariya and kayabandh were widely used, but interesting mixtures of foreign and indigenous garments were fairly prevalent.
The uttariya for both men and women was usually white and of cotton or silk. It was however, at times, of beautiful colors and embroidered. Men could wear it across the back and over both shoulders are merely thrown over the chest, and they seldom wore it as a head covering. The antariya was still worn by both sexes in the kachcha fashion, which meant that one end was passed between the legs and tucked in behind, but this way of draping had its own fanciful fashions. For men it was normally to the knees or even shorter. Generally, the antariya appeared to have been made of almost transparent cloth and was worn very tight and clinging in the case of women. It is almost invisible in the early Andhra sculptures with only double incised lines to show the drape. The nivi bandha or preliminary knot to tie the antariya at the waist is often alluded to in the literature of ancient India.
The kayabandh tied in a bow-shaped knot was worn by both sexes to give further support to the uttariya at the waist. This item was worn in a variety of ways. The kayabandh in the form of a simple sash was called the vethaka. The women also wore the pattika, which was made of flat ribbon-shaped pieces of cloth, usually silk. A heavy-looking thick jewelled roll with hanging tassels-kakshyabandha-was worn by men. The kalabuka was a girdle made of many strips plaited together, and the muraja had drum-headed knots at the ends instead of tassels.
It is in the distinctive ways of wearing these three simple garments the antariya, uttariya and kayabandh and in the headgear and jewellery, that we can trace the evaluation of costumes and the fashion of the times in areas of India where they were in use. The true yajnopavita or sacred thread is found on the sculptures of this period. Before this, it existed more in the form of the uttariya worn draped over the left shoulder and under the right arm in the upavita fashion from which the term yajnopavita consisted of three cotton threads each of nine twisted strands, but of hemp for the kshatriya and of wool for the vaisya. At a later stage this sacred thread continued to be used in a limited way by other castes but was retained most strongly by the Brahmins.
A stitched skirt-like foreign garment called the kancuka was frequently used by attendants, grooms, guards and so on in the king’s court, and an indigenous long tunic was worn by eunuchs and other attendants in the women’s apartments in the palace. Women too wore the short kancuka with an indigenous antariya, or when calf-length it was worn with a kayabandh and uttariya, and in many other ways.
Headgear and Hairstyles
The ushnisa of the men was generally wrapped around three or four times after covering the topknot of hair with one end. It was normally white but could also be of dyed cloth, and simple turbans were held in position by ornamental gold strips or pattabandha. Gold turbans were worn on special occasions. Kirta or crowns were also in use, of which one type was a short cylindrical cap studded with gems and ornamented with designs. The maulibandha was an elaborated turban wound with the hair which itself was decorated with strings of pearls or flowers wreaths. The turban normally covered the hair, which was arranged in a large topknot at centre front, and could have jewelled clasp or maulimani at the centre to hold in place the folds of the turban. This topknot could also be pear-shaped or elliptical to give it variety. Without the turban, the hair could be worn in one or two topknots, or one loop and one topknot. Short hair parted in the middle and reaching the neck was fairly prevalent, especially among the common people.
Women wore their hair in several ways. One was in the form of a plait, praveni, at the back, decorated with jewelled strips and tassels, as Bharat Natyam dancers do today. Another common style was the coil with five delicate plaits dangling from it, a favourite with all classes of women. In the kesapasa style the hair was looped close to the head in an elongated knot at the back of the head or lower downs at the nape. This could have veni, a small fillet of flowers, around it or a short garland of flowers dangling from it. If the hair was made in a simple knot it was known as kabaribandha. The dhammilia was elaborate dressing of the hair with flowers, pearls, and jewels that often completely covered the hair like a close cap or turban. This style was greatly admired in the Satavahana kingdom.
Women no longer wore the turban of earlier periods. Special ornaments were designed to be worn in the hair. The chudamani was lotus-shaped, its petals composed of pearls and precious stones. It was worn normally in the centre of the knotted hair. The makarika was shaped like fish-crocodile and worn at the front parting of the hair, very like gold ornament worn by the uriya women in the northern circars. There were also small crown like fillets through which the hair was drawn and then plaited or hung loose.
Strands of pearls were the main motif in all forms of jewellery particularly in the late period of the Satavahana empire. Both men and women wore earring, bracelets, armlets and necklaces as in previous periods, particularly the indigenous people. The more common design in earring was the kundala shaped like a coil, which could be simple or decorative. The talapatra originated from a small strip of palm leaf rolled and inserted into the lobe. This shape was later made from ivory or gold and could be gem-studded. A full-blown lotus design the kanaka- kamala set in rubies is still popular in South India, and a couple of generations ago the karnika or jimiki continued to be in use. This was in the shape of lotus seed-pod fixed upside down like a tassel. Necklaces or hara were mainly strung with pearls, sometimes consisting of only a single string called ekavali. A necklace of gems and gold beads was called yashti, the central bead being often larger than the others. Several of these necklaces could be worn together. Sometimes three or five slab-like gems, phalaka, were inserted at regular intervals. These held together the several strings of which a necklace was composed, and whole was called a phalakahara.
A simple perfumed cotton-thread necklace was known to have been in use, and tiger claws were strung around the necks of children probably to ward off the evil eye. The yajnopavita, or a sacred thread made of pearls called the muktayajnopavita, were prevalent. Kantha, the shorter form of necklace, continued to be in use and was often of gold set with rubies and emeralds. Also, the gold - coins necklace nishka strung on silk thread or plaited gold cord was worn in almost the same design as the modern putalya of Maharashtra and the malai of Tamil Nadu. These gold coins were sometimes replaced by mango-shaped pieces of gold or gold set with gems, like the contemporary mangamalai of South India. Men and women wore bracelets valaya of solid gold set with precious stones. The more delicate ones were made of filigree, and elegant rope-shaped ones of fine gold wire were worn generally by women. They also used bangles of ivory and rhinoceros horn. Slab-like gems when set into bracelets, like the phalakahara necklace, were called phalakavalaya.
Armlets or keyura for both sexes were close-fitting and could be engraved or set with jewels, or be in the shape of a snake; also they could be straight-edged or have an angular top edge. Jewelled girdles of one or many strings, mekhala, were worn only by women. These were made in several varieties from the tinkling kanci with bells to the rasana style made of a linked chain or strung with pearls, beads or precious stones. These girdles, besides being very attractive, held up the lower garment or antariya. In addition, cloth girdles or kayabandh like those of the men described earlier in this chapter, were also used for the same purpose.
Anklets, worn again only by women, had an astonishing variety. The manjira was hollow and light, coiling several times around the ankles loosely, and tinkling when in motion as it had gems inserted in the hollow. This type is still worn in Manwar. The nupura was plain while the kinkini had small bells suspended. A heavier looking one was the tulakotiI whose two ends were enlarged at their meeting point. This form is still worn in Andhra. Tinkling anklets of any kind were not worn by the wife in the absence of her husband. The finger ring or anguliyaka is visible on some of the Satavahana sculptures but only after A.D.150
The hemavaikasha was an ornament worn by women, seen more frequently in the Kushan period. It consisted of two long wreaths of flowers of pearls crossed at the breasts.
Andhra soldiers wore an antariya which was shortened by lifting it at the hemline and tucking it into the waist to facilitate marching, and the style is still used in Tamil Nadu. A cloth sash or kayabandh was wound tightly many times around the waist for support and was sometimes crossed at the chest for protection. This developed in later times into the Channavira, which was similar in function to the early Babylonian and Assyrian sword belts crossed at the chest with a metal buckle in the centre. In addition, the military personnel of this period occasionally wore earring and simple jewellery.
Saka foreign soldiers were employed by some of the Andhra kings in the royal bodyguard. They wore a heavy tunic with ruched sleeves which reached to the knees or mid-thigh. With it was worn a form of churidar or ruched trousers, and their helmet or sirastra had earflaps. A wide sash was worn at the waist. Sometimes a short quilted tunic was worn with a heavy drape over the left shoulder along with a turban-a mixture of the foreign and indigenous garment. Footwear was not incumbent for soldiers and was probably worn by foreign rather than indigenous troops.
The equipment of a trained fighter was mainly his sword, shield, bow, axe and spear; sometimes the mace, club, and javelin were used. Swords were either curved or straight and could have sharp edge on one or both sides. There were 30 inches long and beautiful crafted. Handles of Ivory or horn and hilts of precious metals encrusted with jewels were carried by those in command, and simpler ones of bamboo or wood were used by the common soldier. These swords in their sheaths, kosha, of fine-tooled leather were normally fastened on the left side of the waist. Smaller and more ornamental swords and draggers were fastened by gold chains.
Shields, mainly rectangular in shape, were purely functional and large enough to protect the body. The club or gada could be short or long but was immensely heavy and was used for striking the enemy forcefully. The bow or dhanush made of wood or horn was painted red and gaily decorated, but the bamboo bow was more common. The bowstring was made of sinew or hemp. The heads of arrows were of iron, bone, and wood and were carved into animal and other shapes, and had shafts of feathers affixed with sinews. Sometimes the arrow tips were dipped in poison.
The Buddhist monks were now in a very powerful position and had more or less abjured their vow of poverty. Their clothes now retained a semblance of patchwork but were composed of rich pieces of cloth of same color, symmetrically arranged together in checks, and most probably presented to the Buddhist order by rich donors, as referred to in the jatakas.
Hindu ascetics continued to wear their bark strip garments valkala with a deerskin over the left shoulder in the style know as ajinayajnopavita. Their hair was tied in a heavy bundled topknot of matted locks called jata-bhara and sometimes the hair was worn in small plaits. The priests were Brahmins who wore white garments but added a red turban when officiating at ceremonial functions.
Jain monks and nuns have retained their white robes to this day and all their beliefs and customs have remained unchanged because of their strong conservatism.
Textiles and Dyes
From Mauryan times and even earlier, the manufacture of textile in India had flourished and there are constant references to its variety in Brahmanical, Buddhist and Jain works. Coarse and fine varieties of cotton were in great demand. Silk formed an important part of rich person’s wardrobe. A very cheap material made of hemp was worn by the weavers and by labourers of all kinds. Wool was not need much in the part of India ruled by Satavahanas, which had a warm climate, but it was used in the form of chaddars or blankets in winter.
There was a variety of Dyes available from Vedic times, indigo, yellow, crimson, magenta, black and turmeric. Since washermen were also dyers, these colors were known to them and the knowledge of the dyeing processes was probably handed down to each successive generation. Varieties and mixtures of colors known to those countries with which the Satavahanas did a great deal of trade, like China, Persia and Rome, must also have been incorporated to extend their range of colored textiles.
Printed and woven designs on textile were plentiful and embroidery in gold was also common among the richer classes. The uttariya, in particular, was very often of silk and embroidered with flowers all over, or had a pattern of birds along with flowers. Precious stones were often used in the borders of these uttariyas or they were dyed blue or red, but a spotless white remained the favourite with men.
The late Satavahanas style expressed more directly the full impact of the Dravidians-Andhra ethos. With the crowded compositions of lean and strong bodies and the ferocious figures looming over terrified crowds, we feel a sense of frenzied activity and turbulence. The kayabandhs make complex arabesques, but there is less differentiation between the court and the people as they throng together.
VILLAGE WOMAN [Ajanta, Cave X]
Satavahana Village Woman Antariya : Lower cloth, calf length, of fine cotton with fluted ends in front, worn in kachcha style, that is between the legs.
Uttariya : Upper cloth of printed cotton worn crosswise on the head.
Kayabandh : Embroidered flat cloth band, pattika style, worn in a looped knot with fringed ends.
Mekhala : Six-stringed hip belt of gold or silver beads.
Lambanam : long necklace made of chains held at intervals by flat bands, phalakahara style.
Kantha : Short necklace of five strings of beads in gold or silver.
Karnika : Trumpet-shaped earrings.
Kangan : Ten bracelets adorning each hand.
Baju Band : Decorative armlets worn on upper arms.
Kara : Anklets of twisted wire worn on both ankles.
Sitara : Star shaped forehead ornament of gold or silver with a stamped pattern.
NAGA KING [Ajanta, Cave IX]
Satavahana Naga KingKantha : broad and flat short necklace with four pendant pieces (base-metal)
Karnika : large cylindrical earring with a decorative design (base metal)
Kangan : heavy and cylindrical bracelets (base metal)
Baju Band : thick cylindrical armlets with pendant pieces (base metal)
Head-dress : turban is twisted around the head and held with a decorative band; hair is long, as worn by aboriginal, and is arranged in a topknot and five crests with ribbons like serpents' hoods
Prince [Amravati, 1st period]
Satavahana prince Antariya : worn in kachcha style to below the knees; the stripes indicate the folds of the drape
Kayabandh : kakshyabandha style, a thick roll worn aslant at the hips with beautiful ornamental tips and tied in large loop-knot
Belt : with granulated pattern worn higher than antariya
COURTIER [Ajanta, Cave X]
satavahana courtier hair is brought forward in a 'conch-shell' knot and decorated; the fillet is probably used to keep it in place; earrings are disc-type and necklace is of the phalakahara style with chains held at intervals by flat pieces
NAGA PRINCE [Ajanta, Cave IX]
Satavahana Naga Prince hair is arranged in a large top knot at the centre with the turban wound around the head after twisted it around the knot, a brooch decorates the centre of the top knot; earrings are of the double disc-type; necklace, bracelets are made of base metal, and are probably hollow
WOMAN [Amravati, 4th period]
Satavahana Woman Ghagri : gathered calf-length skirt probably with a drawstring at the waist
kayabandh : simple vethaka style, but longed and wound several times around the waist
Uttariya : wrapped loosely around the hips and draped over the left arm
valaya : several bangles of ivory or rhinoceros horn
Kundala : ring-type earrings
Manjira : hollow light anklets, coiling twice around and probably making a tinkling sound in movement
Hairstyle : drawn back into a simple knot at the nape
Satavahana Prince Antariya : falling to the ankles, worn in kachcha style with pleats tucked in at the back and visible in the front between the legs
Kayabandh : twisted rope-like around the waist, then twisted twice to form a knot at the right hip; the other end suspended in front ends in two ornamental tips
Belt : ornamental belt
Kantha : three of different sizes worn together to form a collar
Keyura : flat and decorative armlets
Kundala : ring-type earring
Valaya : three bracelets on each hand of some heavy metal or bone and incised with patterns
Kundala : ring-type earrings with tassels suspended
Headgear : an ornamental disc worn in front of jatta or knot of hair
Satavahana AttendantKancuka : probably calf-length, it has a gathered neckline with a band and long sleeves decorated with a braid in stripes
Uttariya : heavy and long, draped formally across the chest and around the left shoulder
Kayabandh : heavy, wound twice around the waist
headgear : turban with a fan-shaped frill
Probably a master of ceremonies, he carries a staff
MALE [Ajanta, Cave X]
Satavahana Male Ushnisa : turban tied casually in a knot with one end going down the other up
Kundala : suspended disc-type earrings
FEMALE [Ajanta, Cave X]
Satavahana Female Kirita : a crown-like headgear with semi-circular motifs in front and larger lotus petal designs at the back
Kundala : large ring-type earrings
Satavahana Buddha Antariya : worn in lehnga style almost up o ankle length
Uttariya : wide upper cloth draped across the body to form folds and resting on the left arm
Hairstyle : in top knot
This depiction of the Buddha on his way to Yashodara, his wife. The Uttariya could be the large chaddar used when travelling.
COURT ATTENDANT [Ajanta, Cave X]
Satavahana Court Attendant Antariya : of sheer cotton
Kayabandh : narrow pattika tied in a bow at the front of the waist
kantha : phalakahara style necklace
Karnika : simple disc-type earring called dehri
Kangan : both granulated and plain seen on the left arm
Hairstyle :centre parting, hair hanging loose to the shoulders and decorated with ornamental chains.
Sitara: large disc at the forehead, either painted or affixed
she carries a fan typical of the times.
KING AS HUNTER [Ajanta, Cave X]
Satavahana king as hunter Kancuka : mid-thigh length with round neck and short magyar-type sleeves
Kayabandh : wide, worn wrapped around the waist a couple of times and tucked in
Ushinsa : turban cloth wound with hair and twisted into a top knot; the rest of the cloth is then wound around the head
Karnika : ring-like earrings, kundala type
Although not visible, a short langoti type antariya is worn.
ATTENDANTS [Ajanta, Cave X]
Satavahana Attendants attendant on the left wears her hair parted at the left and hanging loosely to the shoulders, her earrings are of the pendant type; the one on the right is the umbrella brearer or chhatradhar, she wears her hair held back by a fillet and made into a top knot
The umbrella carrier was usually a woman. the umbrella was normally a colored one with a handle of gold workmanship, a white one being the emblem of the king alone.
SOLDIERS [Ajanta, Cave X]
Satavahana Soldiers Kancuka : mid-thigh length tunic with short sleeves
Uttariya : tied around the neck to free the arms
Karnika : disc-type earrings called dehri
ushnisa : turban twisted around and through double topknot of hair
They are carring a kind of spear in their hands
SOLDIERS [Ajanta, Cave X]
satavahana soldiers Kancuka : both have short-sleeved tunics with round necks, the neck opening is obviously at the back
Karnika : Kundala or ring-type earrings
Hairstyle : simple top knot at the centre of the head very like that worn by the hiimen of South Manipur and Burma called the Chins
They carry battle axes.
Satavahana King Antariya : falling to the ankles, worn in kachcha style with pleats tucked in at the back and visible in the front between the legs
Kayabandh : elaborately rolled and twisted at the waist, falling in graceful loops at the sides with one rope-like loop in front
Belt : ornamental belt
Kantha : short necklace
Keyura : straight-edged armlets with pressed or filigree decoration
Kundala : ring-type earring
Valaya : simple bangles at the wrists
Hairstyle : loose to the shoulders with a small fringe at the forehead
Headgear : an ornamental disc attached to a head band or top knot
Satavahana Prince Antariya : worn in kachcha style and spread out after tucking in at the back, in double fish-tail style; the little frills in the front could be just a puff of the antariya pulled out at the waist over the nada
Kayabandh : rolled twice at the waist, then looped in the front so that the two ends are worn loosely spread out as a frill at each side
Kantha : collar-like necklace
Hairstyle : in top knot
CHATTRADHARA : UMBRELLA BEARER [South India]
Satavahana Chattradhara Umbrella Bearer Antariya : ends a little above the ankles; kachcha style, with the pleated ends passed between the legs and tucked in at the back centre
Kancuka : fork-length tunic with long sleeves and round neckline
Kayabandh : simple sash vethaka style, tied at the back with hanging ends
Umbrella : white with gold work on the handle
Hairstyle : simple, worn hanging loose at the back
Satavahana Prince -long hair is drawn up into several twisted loops held by two twisted coils, the shorter hair being allowed to hang loose around the face
Satavahana Buddha Antariya : worn in lehnga style
Uttariya : the upper cloth has a border and is worn in an interesting drape on the left shoulder and hangs at the back loosely to fork length
Hairstyle : in top knot
This depiction of the Buddha as preacher gives an idea of the type of clothes worn by those Buddhist monks who travelled and preached both in India and abroad. The color of their garments was reddish-yello and no jewellery was worn
DVARPALA : DOOR-KEEPER [Nagarjunakonda]
Satavahana DvarpalaKancuka : knee-length tunic of heavy cloth with long ruched sleeves and gathered neckline
Churidar : narrow ruched trousers
Kayabandh : wound several times around the waist
Headgear: helmet with peaked top called sirastra, some times with ear flaps
Torque : necklace of twisted wire